When staying in Livingston you have to go see the Seven Altars…… no it is not a religious festival or a church, rather a series of seven waterfalls, cascading over huge rock altars in the dense jungle north of Livingston.
Our decision to explore this area was one of those impulse decisions which end up coming together seamlessly, probably because we were already staying at Rios Tropicales who arrange these trips. Our fellow travellers Christin & Dennis were immediately intrigued by the idea, as our guided tour would take us through the Garifuna section of Livingston, into the surrounding fields, across a river and along the beach to the falls. Included was our guide, lunch and the entry fee of 20 Quetzals, the deal was struck and 15 minutes later we were following our very friendly, though non English speaking guide up into the higher part of town.
The most disturbing thing about that stroll through this area of Livingston was the very apparent poverty and the accompanying disregard for the accumulated rubbish and sickly feral dogs and cats. When money is tight such things are low on the list of priorities all over the world, even though it offends our western sensibilities such is the reality of travel.
About 15 minutes later we veer off down a side road, passing fields of corn, bananas and small thatched houses sitting in their own small circles of hard packed red dirt. No fancy tiled floors or indoor plumbing here, just lots of chickens, kids (both human and goats) and the odd pig.
Did I mention that it rained a lot in Livingston while we were there? It had rained torrentially every night since we had arrived which meant that we would witness the falls in full roar. What it also meant was that our guides chosen route was fraught with its own delights. Mud and lots of it, skirting fields and crossing swollen streams while balancing precariously on moss covered logs became an “adventura” as our guide explained with a big grin as we squelched, slipped and slithered our way deeper into a system of trails used at some points by only pygmies or the wildlife equivalent.
I for one was beginning to despair of ever getting out of the mud when we arrived on the banks of a murky green, gently flowing river, at last… here is where we would catch our canoe and then on to the Altars!
Well kind of, a very serious young man paddled over in one of the local handmade dugout canoes, these consist of a hollowed out log with no such refinements as seats apart from the 2 plastic crates placed strategically inside. Our guide urged us to get in, we promptly did, and managing to weigh down the boat so firmly that there was no way this thing would float with all of us in it.
Our guide disappeared and we could hear a conversation bandying back and forth across the river until help arrived. Help in this case was a much more substantial boat with a outboard engine skippered by a very large, almost naked Rastafarian, who proudly introduced himself as the father of the dozen or so kids who were shrieking with delight nearby.
Our skipper cranked the engine and we were whisked off downriver and gently deposited at the north side of the river only a few kilometres from our starting point in downtown Livingston. It had already taken 2 hours to get to this point (thanks to all that mud) and we still had a way to go.
The rest of our trip was on foot along the most garbage strewn beach I have ever seen, countless pieces of plastic and dozens of single footwear examples (a one footed person would have no problem finding something to fit in this mess).
I should note here that you can explore the Altars by yourself, either arriving by boat or walking through town over the swing bridge (once it has been rebuilt that is) and then along the beach, although do be aware that there have been some security issues in the past, some of the areas inhabitants are not averse to relieving you of your money jewellery etc. As always leave the fancy stuff at home and take with you only what you need for the day.
The distinct advantage of having a guide is that you are now “hands off” so we felt very safe the entire time (apart from the visions of us being covered in mud from head to toe). We arrived at the entrance to Siete Altares, our guide paid the fee and our upward climb began. It is fairly easy going until you reach the first altar, which is a large impressive table or altar like rock over which the water pours in a crystal clear sheet. Footsteps have been chiselled into the rock and along with the helpfully strung ropes it is a easy matter to climb up and across the top into the bubbling stream beyond. You will need waterproof shoes or at least something you don’t mind getting wet as your journey from here on is over the rocky stream bed.
There are indeed Seven Altars, most of them with accompanying pools the largest of which is at the very top altar. It is worth the climb trust me, especially when your guide is a trooper and volunteers to show you the best spot to jump in from. You got it……. clamber up the left hand side of the rock walls, there is a very useful rope pull to assist you ascent , once there follow the handily placed foot notches to the middle. Take a deep breath and jump well out, you don’t want to find out that it is possible to stand on boulders directly under the falls……. not from that height.
The pool is actually very deep as Denis found out when he attempted to swim to the bottom; this of course is with a relatively high water level, jumping may not be possible at dry times. Whether you brave the jump or not it is a great place to cool off and wash away the remainder of that persistent mud.
Refreshed, exhilarated and famished we made our way back along the beach to partake of lunch and a cold cerveza at one of the excellent beach resorts. Our half day trip had already stretched to 6 hours, so our guide negotiated a ride on one of the communal trucks and we arrived back in town in style. I and Christin squeezed in with the driver and the guys rode shot gun in the open back.
A Super day with a couple of new friends, what else can you ask for, all for the princely sum of around $12 each, highly recommended and thank you Christin & Dennis for making it such a delight….. mud and all!
