Lake Nicaragua or Cocibolca with an area of 8,264 km2 (3,191 sq miles) is the largest lake in Central America and probably the first thing you notice when looking at a map of Nicaragua. It dominates the map and our visit to this beautiful country.
Within a few hours of arriving we were advised that we had to visit the Islets of Granada: (Isletas de Granada) just southeast of Granada city.
There are quite a few tour operators here so you can take your pick as to which you go with, they do not all run the same tour. So make sure you know exactly what you are getting. We wanted to explore the islands and were not interested in spending a hour to have lunch at one of the islands restaurants.
We choose Leo tours, a small 100% Nicaraguan owned outfit and were glad we did. The meeting point is the small office in town, to get from there to the boat involves a 10 minute bicycle ride or if you are lucky a delightful ride in one of the cities horse drawn buggies. Our gaily painted boat, complete with plank seats, awning, outboard and skipper nosed out through green water, overhanging trees and a light breeze.
Our guide pointed out the huge volcanic boulders that make up these 365 small islands sprinkled around us. He also pointed out the imperfect peak of nearby Mombacho volcano, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out where these islands came from. They were formed when Mombacho blew its top into the lake thousands of years ago, thereby creating the archipelago.
Most of the islets are covered with vegetation and rich with life, including birds (Montezuma Oropendula) that build pendulous hanging nests resembling the latest fashion in ladies handbags.
The islands closest to Granada belong to, rum and beer magnates, ex-presidents, politicians and movie stars who maybe use these magnificent homes once or twice a year. All I can say is what a pity!
They appear to be idyllic little oasis in this huge fresh water lake. Some of the outer islands are more exposed to the waves that crest in this imitation sea, others are tucked away behind their bigger cousins.
Our little boat braves some of the waves and leave the luxury homes behind, we putter past deserted islands or those barely inhabited. “Monkey Island” is home to a family of spider monkeys and one solitary capuchin, who willingly pose for photographs especially if there is a chance of fresh fruit to be had.
A little further and the islands are populated by the ”normal people”, 3 or 4 families may live together on one island, their homes are small wooden huts, the residents ply the waters with small boats and cast their nets for supper and a little extra to sell at Granada’s market. Not all of them follow in the family tradition, Leo the tour company owner was born on one of these little rocky isles.
We glide up to a mossy stone dock, stepping gingerly to avoid clusters of bright red ants feasting on fallen fruit, our guide Victor takes us to the trail. The fisherman and the school children walk this every day. The school that services the families in these islets is close by. The fishermen have a longer walk to get to Granada’s market place. No wonder the fish section had a distinct aroma.
The trail skirts the swamp which is home to the local crocodiles……. Not sure who is more in danger, the humans from the fast moving crocs or the crocs from the money hungry locals! Crocodile skin fetches a good price here and is in plentiful supply in the Masaya artisan market, cunningly disguised as bags, belts and shoes.
This is where we saw and heard Howler monkeys; a small group live in the area and will loudly proclaim their right to the territory, especially when roused with our guides Howler call. By the end of the walk we could all speak Howler …. I wish Spanish was as simple!
Break time consisted of fresh fruit and a refreshing dip. Once we were all safely back on land we discovered that Lake Nicaragua is home to a species of Bull Shark, not something I want to encounter in the murky water.
We arrived back in town in time for a spectacular sunset, a quick shower and another stupendous meal. One of the best tours we have done and a unbeatable price at US$15 per person.
Lake Nicaragua contains other islands which are crying out to be explored especially after reading this article from Go Nomad. We will be back to explore more of this fascinating country.
This just proves that you don’t have to spend tons of money to have the time of your life! Keep it up!