Your Escape Blueprint

My first glimpse of this battlement mounted, sliver of rock jutting out from the hotel fringed shore, was so compelling we changed our travel plans to make time to explore! 

Peniscola a small, laid, back beach side town can be found between Barcelona & Valencia on Spain’s eastern coast. Although it had been recommended as an interesting place to visit, we did not realise how interesting till we arrived and looked down an otherwise unremarkable beach!

It was so tempting to set out down that beach and explore! Glad we didn’t…… as we would have been walking a long time!!!! It was also useful to have a car as the local bus service was not running that day.

The Castle was initially erected by the Knights Templar on the ruins of a old Moorish Citadel, completed by the Montesianos in the 14^th century and later modified by Pope Luna, his heraldic coat of arms can be found in his old study. Benedict XIII also had his palace here which can be found to the right of the main patio. The claim to fame is that this is only one of the 3 places in the world where Popes have lived Rome, Avignon and in this very place, with a room facing in the direction of Rome.

As in many of Spain’s ancient cities, the “Old” town is housed inside the fortress walls, the modern development spreading outward and along the beaches. The “Old” town is of course where the most interesting places are to be found.

Standing surrounded by “tons” of rock and stone, peering through an archer slit, generations have huddled here for protection, the doors are barricaded, bows are taut, quivers ready……Hey! Perhaps boiling oil to pour over the battlements against invaders? Maybe that’s why I was so drawn here…… my English heritage of conquerors and invaders, makes me feel right at home here.

It is well worth the €3.50 entry fee, which includes a map and brief explanation of the Castle, the views are of course far reaching…… why else would it be built here if not to command such a view? From the battlements, the concrete coastline sweeps away to either side. The ocean sparkles before us, white froth below, bordered by blues, dark and forbidding  as the dark rocks beneath to turquoise, aqua and even baby blue, in the sandy shallows where babies run naked.

Behind us the old city snuggles up and out, intersected by winding alleys, sun dried laundry, palm trees and tiled domes. It reminds me of my trips to Egypt, the domes and white washed walls; show the Moorish influence in these towns.

The call was answered and we thoroughly enjoyed the visit, one of my favourite places so far.

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Traveling allows the brave and curious to try the local cuisines, one of the aspects of travel that we love the most!

In Spain the afternoon meal   is usually served at about 1pm, the evening meal is not served until 9 pm or later, with 8 hours between meals you may find yourself in the market for a few Tapas.

Tapas is a generic term for a variety of hot or cold  appetizers, that range from olives and cheese to battered deep fried baby squid ( and lots in between, including fish roe sacks).

To stave off starvation many Spaniard’s bar hop before dinner, snacking on tapas and catching up with friends. The word tapa in Spanish means to cover. The story goes that tapas were invented to keep fruit flies out of the bar patrons Sherry in the Andalusia region of Spain.

The first Tapas started out as lowly pieces of bread to cover the Sherry glass. Apparently the owners of the bars discovered that salty tapas increased Sherry consumption and as Tapas evolved they also represented an income stream just as lucrative as the Sherry.

In North America people live to work, In Europe, it appears, people live to eat. The Spaniard’s like the Italians take their food VERY seriously, main meals are a central activity and may take several hours to enjoy. What I have learned is this– not all Tapas bars are created equally. Some are awesome and some are complete crap.                        

The mistake we made was over investing in an establishment before the quality of the food was revealed. The very friendly owner of one Tapas bar was an expert in getting bums into seats, he was also very good at marketing his menu.

We invested heavily, by ordering Gazpacho, salad and a variety of tapas.

The Gazpacho (cold vegetable soup) as promised was good but it was all downhill from there. The salad was wilted, covered in canned tuna, and was floating on several inches of liquid sloshing around the bottom of the bowl. The homemade chicken croquets were more like deep fried snot balls. The grouper we ordered turned out to be rubbery squid rings. All of the tapas were served on a bed of cold greasy fries.

The lesson learnt from this experience:

Speak with a local resident and ask where the best tapas are to be had. Barring this, especially if your Spanish could do with a little help is order only one thing at a time!

If the food is crap there is always another tapas bar nearby!

Salud!

We have all heard it said book ahead, book online, use Expedia, Tripadvisor or one of the other online booking sites who claim to have the best prices!

There is an even better way although it does take a little more legwork!

During our travels between house sits, we do need to find places to rest our weary heads. If internet access has been sketchy often, it is a case of deciding where is to be the end of the road for that day and finding a hotel when we get there. Having GPS or Satellite Navigation system in your car or phone is invaluable, as you can punch in hotels, pick the closest ones and cruise by. We like to check out the neighborhood in person, my well-developed “spidey” senses have said no more than once!

You have to learn to trust your gut/instinct here, if it does not feel right, it is not! Our trip to Italy was a good example, more than once we drove away from a potential bed for the night because it did not feel right. If you have pre-booked and paid, this is not always so easy to do, unless you are willing to lose your money.

Once you have found a potential candidate, the area feels good, and the hotel looks fine now for the real test! I go in and ask if they have a room available (no, I do not speak perfect German, Belgium, French, Italian or Spanish, but I do look up how to say hello and ask if the receptionist speaks English, guess what, they usually do!).

They do have a room, great now it is time to put your negotiation skills to the test. Firstly, find out what it costs per night and ensure it is not price per person. I always ask to see the room before committing. I did this in Germany, the room was huge, with a large space for as yet unfurnished sitting area. By explaining that I only wanted a double, which was not available, we secured this room for the same price. These places want your Euros my friends.

On our trip to Spain, we knew where we planned to be the first night and did a little research into hotels in the area before arriving. Armed with this knowledge and normal room rates we secured a delightful room in a lovely riverside hotel in Lunel France for half of the posted rate.

We were so impressed with the great room and rate we secured in Peniscola, Spain that we stayed another day! Our target hotel was the wrong way down a one-way street….uurggh! Frustrated and unable to reach our hotel of choice, we drove by the Casablanca. Who would not want to stay at the Casablanca?

Mike pulled over and I did some more legwork, I walked into the reception area of this clean, airy, spacious and very nice hotel! Within minutes, I had secured half board, which includes dinner & breakfast and a sea view room for only €47!

Michael was also in shock, especially after we saw the room, I am sure we got the best suite in the hotel! The Casablanca is a large hotel just over the road from the beach, the food was great and the few hotel guests were friendly Spanish couples who know how to party!

The Casablanca on Expedia, cost over €73 per night for room only–that is €27 more than we paid and we had meals included.

Our hotel in Carmona, found the same way, was a delightful old building right in the old town itself, again less than the online booking sites.

This is a great reason for travelling during the shoulder season in Europe, there are many rooms available and if you can deal with the uncertainty of travelling un-booked, you can save yourself a whole lot of money! If you cannot, piece of mind has a price!

Lesson learned, was to make minimal bookings in advance, to know going rates and be prepared to negotiate.

Please note that most Europeans go on vacation in July & August, this is when Expedia & Co will come in useful, as availability is tight.

Have you found other ways to keep your accommodation costs down? We would love to hear them.

Is not as simple as it sounds! Cinque Terre a group of 5 villages perched along  the coastline, accessible by foot and train. Cars are limited to residents only and to be honest having to drive here could send you prematurely grey!

Most visitors arrive by train, we were recommended to catch the train from La Spezia! We did not manage an early start, coffee on our patio was hard to resist and our Satellite Navigation system decided that  it was going to take us on  the scenic route & that it would send us round in circles looking for the train station!

La Spezia is a big, bustling city with like many of these places, tortuous, twisting and as convoluted as spaghetti! Add to that a total of 3 train stations, limited parking and a time limit! Our expedition abandoned, we headed down to Portovenere, this is a picturesque village built on a rocky toe jutting into the Mediterranean! This place is as enchanting as any of the Cinque Terre villages, a lot easier to get to with fantastic views especially from St Peter’s Church, you can also visit Byron’s Cove and taste the fresh pesto!

Portovenere

Portovenere has a ferry service which runs to Cinque Terre several times a day for about $30 you can get a fisherman’s view of this beautiful spot. We determined to come back and just maybe catch that ferry!

Our interest was definitely peaked all we needed know was to find the best way to get to Cinque Terre, after extensive research (praise to Google) we discovered that you have to get to the Central station in La Spezia, also that parking is a nightmare to find. However  you can drive to Levanto which is a turn off just up the highway from La Spezia followed by a short windy drive, lots of sharp bends, cliff wall one side, plummet the other!!! No problem, we have been practising.

The station was easy to find as was the parking which cost about $10 for 8 hours, 10 minutes later we are onboard with our 24 hour train and trail pass in hand! (There is now a access charge for hiking the trails). We decided to ride the train to Riomaggiore and work our way back using trails and trains!

We took the trail to Manarola which was a gentle stroll along a level path hugging the cliffside, how very civilized! Next was Corniglia who teeters on the edge of a cliff, the sea has had its way and this seaside village now has 365 steps down to sea level! The station is almost at sea level and there is a long climb us said steps to the top! The village is worth a vista, however the trail to Vernazza was closed! Down all those steps to the train!!!

Lots of stairs!

You might also want to check the train schedule in advance so that you don’t end up sitting at the bottom of those stairs during the one and half hours where there is no train service!

Vernazza was a hive of rebuilding and a gorgeous place, revolving around its narrow, steep, main street, finding the beginning of the trail took some time, perseverance won out and we set off, going up, up and up! This is not for the faint of heart and high heels and flip flops are deterred. I was glad to have my hiking boots! We were also very glad that it was a overcast, cool day, there was many a shiny, slick, red face including mine to be found among our fellow climbers. This is not a gentle stroll, however anything worthwhile doesn’t come easy, it is worthwhile, including the climb down to Monterosso……. where we accosted by a voice emanating from a hole in the netting walls! Freshly squeezed lemons, grown in his own garden and squeezed on the spot, add sugar, ice water and heaven is served!

If he is there when you visit, do try the lemonade or even the Lemoncella and maybe he will regale you with how the youngsters don’t want to work anymore! They just want to drink, play on their computers and smoke marijuana! What is the world coming too?

Monterosso is a place I would like to visit again, however our parking ticket was expiring! Levanto to Riomaggiore by train 27 minutes, back by train, foot, trails and the odd beverage 8 hours!

Perfect Day

“Eat lots of food from Italy and you will be so healthy your doctor will hate you!” Chef Paolo Monti, May 2012. After a day of seeing, smelling and eating Chef Paolo Monti’s food, you will have to agree!

What else would you do during a few wet soggy days in Tuscany other than take a cooking class? Maybe it is on your bucket list too.

Chef Paolo

A quick google search bought up the name of a nearby cooking school with Chef Paolo Monti, a quick phone call with the English-speaking chef and you are booked. The classes are held in a special kitchen at Hotel Carignano, just outside Lucca, Tuscany. Classes start at 10am and you join your fellow classmates in the hotel lobby.

Our fellow classmates had attended the class the day before and enjoyed it so much they were back for more! Chef Paolo offers a range of themes, Tuscan specialties were on the menu today.

We were not disappointed it was a fun, informative, hands on and hilarious 6 hours! Classes are advertised as finishing at 2.30pm, this appears to be a moving target.

The classes are informative and hands on, everyone gets involved with chopping, measuring, stirring and of course tasting. You have to eat the fruits of your labor and lunch is the Italian tradition is not to be rushed!

Here is the lineup for “The Tuscan Cooking Class”

• Panzanella ~ Tuscan Bread salad
• Crostini alle Melanzane ~ Croutons with Eggplant topping
• Crostini ai fegatini ~ Bread with chicken liver and caper pate
• Tordelli alla Lucchese ~ Vegetable ravioli with meat sauce
• Ragu di carne alla Lucchese ~ Meat sauce from Lucca
• Arista di maiale alla Toscana ~ Roast Pork with pancetta, rosemary and sage
• Patate arrosto ~ Roast Potatoes
• Cantuccini ~ the famous Biscotti

You will eat it all! We even tried the chicken liver pate!

Biscotti was first on the agenda,  as Chef Paolo says “Life’s too short….. make and eat desert first right?”

We donned our aprons and jumped into the fray, egged on by our classmates. Two of us measured ingredients and made the dough. While Chef Paolo dished out encouragement, guidance, history and tips along with generous helpings of corny and slightly off color humor.

From there we rolled into making chicken stock and chopping vast quantities of onion, celery, carrot, herbs etc., our Chef making sure that everyone had something to chop, slice, sauté. With a good knife and guidance on how to chop, slice and crush, it was a breeze. Before we knew it the ragu was simmering on the stove and the Biscotti was ready for cutting. Biscotti  has to be cut while still warm, any pieces that fail the rigorous standards of size and angle of cut have to be consumed on the spot!

The eggplant came hot from the oven, scoop out the insides, chop it up add garlic, lemon juice, parsley and lots of oil, good quality Extra Virgin Olive oil is a must in this kitchen.

The liver pate was finished next and it was time for a break, Crostinis with of course a glass of wine. Both wine and Olive Oil flows plentifully in this kitchen. I can live without the liver pate, not the Eggplant though it was pure bliss, this one is definitely a keeper!

Our classmates were a fantastic group of friends travelling together, already a tight knit group they welcomed us in and warned us not to eat too much of the Crostini, thanks for the warning! They were right we feasted for hours.

Back to work, the pork loin needed to be gently loved, seasoned and wrapped in a blanket of pancetta, into the oven she goes. The left over seasoning is perfect for roast potatoes!

No Italian cooking class would be complete without making pasta from scratch! The dough is tricky to handle even with expert tuition.

Before we knew it, everything was ready, we retired to the table in the courtyard where food, wine & laughter flowed in equal measures! It was a perfect way to spend a day. Italian tradition calls for a Siesta after such a feast, who are we to break tradition?

Thanks for a perfect day!

Mmmmhhh!

Bread salad in the making!

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On October 25^th 2011 heavy rain storms described as rain bombs hit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Cinque Terre and the villages above!

The mass of water, rolled down the mountainsides, devastating all five villages, hardest hit were Vernazza & Corniglia, torrents of water hurtled down bringing boulders, mud & disaster for many.

We knew that the cleanup was in progress and that the trail between Vernazza & Corniglia was still closed, we were not expecting to see the evidence with our own eyes!

Houses with foundations and walls swept away, yawning open rooms, some with furnishings still in place! As was very evident when we hiked the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso!

Vernazza was a beehive of workers, replacing doorways, windows and livelihoods!!! The fickle hand of fate spared one, only to wreak havoc on a neighbour!!!!

We had seen glimpses of this string of villages, stories from friends who had visited and fallen in love with the place! I cannot describe it any more eloquently than  Rick Steves who like many has been captured by its beauty. We too were captured by its beauty and tenacity!

The rebuilding and repair goes on at a frenetic pace……. these tiny villages rely on those thousands of visitors who visit to hike the trails and gaze in awe at its beauty. They also leave a few Euros behind!

Sadly this could possibly have been avoided!  We had long discussions with locals and other Tuscans, who are firmly convinced that this was a result of a series of small things. There are less people working and caring for the land, ancient drainage systems are falling into neglect, the upper villages failed to notify the villages of Cinque Terre about the mass of water that was descending on them, floodgates and drains were not opened to capacity! We repeat only what was we have heard, but can see for ourselves that many of the ribbon drains built into the paths and roads are clogged with debris. Tuscany’s countryside appears to be populated only by an aging generation!

Who knows what may happen in the years to come, but  we are pleased to say that we

Repairs underway

believe Cinque Terre will continue to be….. at least for now!