Commonly known as ‘The White City’ due to the fact that’s its baroque buildings are built from a white volcanic stone known as sillar, Arequipa was the next stop on our Peru adventure.
The city is framed by mountains and three volcanoes (El Misti, Chachani, & Pichu Pichu) and sits at an elevation of 7,661 feet, making it a perfect spot to acclimate to thinner air before heading off to the much higher Cusco.
We chose an AirBnb just outside of the city center, with a great view of Volcan Chachani from our front window and with a delightful friendly hostess, Rosa. It took us 10 minutes to walk into the center with just one busy road to navigate. That in itself was an eye opener, they have pedestrian cross walks here, but cars do not stop or slow down, so crossing the street can be a little ‘exciting’ to say the least.
Arequipa is much smaller than Lima, it is also much less polluted and a great deal cleaner, thanks to the army of cleaners that patrol its streets. Another difference was the friendliness of the people, each person we passed on our morning strolls greeted us with a friendly ‘buenos dias’, before stopping for a chat with their neighbours, or helping the delivery guys negotiate carts and trolleys over the holes and debris left by ongoing water pipe replacement in one neighbourhood.
Our first destination was the Plaza de Armas, a huge stately square dominated by the 17th century neoclassical Basilica Cathedral on it’s north side. During the day the whole square is packed with vendors, shoe cleaners and yes, more ice cream sellers. The benches fill up with seniors enjoying the rapidly warming day and teenagers giggling and showing off for their friends. In the evenings it is even livelier with families enjoying the warm weather and tourists snapping away trying to capture the dramatically lit Cathedral.
While in Arequipa we took our first ‘tour’. Tours are things we seldom do, however as we were so close to Colca Canyon, (with a maximum depth of 10,730 it’s one of the deepest canyons in the world and the deepest is not the Grand Canyon either) we decided to go for it.
At 2.45 am the next morning we were beginning to regret out decision. Yep, this particular trip called for an early start and although we are close to the equator it’s a little chilly in the mornings. Our minivan eventually arrived and we jumped in for a tortuous drive through darkened streets.
By the time the sun was peeking over the horizon we had left Arequipa far behind and were greeted with an ever changing landscape of fields, desolate plateaus, lush green valleys and snow-capped mountains in the distance.
We had a quick stop in Chivay for a much needed breakfast and our first glimpse of Llama toting, traditionally clad ladies, before getting back on board and onto Maca village and its XVI century Church. The most striking thing about this stop was not the church; it was the industry that has grown up around the regular stream of tourists passing through. The whole square was lined with locals in their colorful, intricately patterned traditional dress all selling hand knitted alpaca jumpers, socks, scarfs and shawls or intricately woven belts, bracelets, table cloths, shawls, ponchos, hand carved gourds and tiny alpaca key chains. However the busiest ladies and I will admit I got sucked in as well, were the ladies with alpacas and llamas, both in their colorful finery offering photo opportunities for 1 sol a shot (about 30 cents). Those with baby alpacas were doing a roaring trade, as they are so darn cute. When we passed through the same village on our way home several hours later, to see the same ladies still offering photos, I realised that this could not be good for the babies, shouldn’t they be suckling from their moms by now?
The Colca Canyon region is stunning. At one point you can see the whole of the Colca valley spread out below and the Colca River running through the valley before it disappears into the depths of the canyon that it has carved over the millennia. We would love to hike down into the depths but time doesn’t allow on this trip (perhaps we will have to come back) instead we are back in the van and onto the Colca Cross.
Perched high up the canyon side a viewing platform has been built for the hordes of tourists (including ourselves) who come in hopes of seeing the Condor in flight. These rare birds are amongst the biggest birds in the world with a wingspan of 2.1 to 2.7 metres (7-9 ft.). They typically live for 60 or 70 years and are considered to be a symbol of long life and eternity. Like many carrion eaters they have a long bald neck and are not the prettiest of birds. However to see them effortlessly skim along the canyon walls before wheeling down out of sight, is an image indelibly printed on our souls.
Our trip home included a stop at Patapampa viewpoint, at a breathtaking 15,750 ft elevation we were all somewhat lightheaded by the time we were back in the van and heading towards some somewhat denser air. Next up was the La Cabra hot springs with a series of different temperature pools with scenic riverside views. The best views though were those to follow. Herds of grazing llamas and alpacas dot the landscape with the only sign of human habitation being the rough corrals where they spend the night. Pumas also stalk these hills so each evening the herds are rounded up for their protection. For the wild camelids the vicuna, there is no such protection, however they do survive as evidenced by the small groups of these dainty, rust colored creatures grazing alongside alpacas and llamas.
It was a long busy day but well worth it, touts and all.
Oh yes, one more thing about Arequipa one of its flanking volcanoes is active. El Misti has been spitting steam and smoke quite regularly for a number of years now and may even have been responsible for the tremor we felt and saw on our second day.
Up next are Puno and the floating islands of Lake Titkaka, so stay tuned.
