Although it is a 45 minute drive from the center of Rome, Trevignano Romano is officially within the boundaries of Metropolitan Rome.
The city of Rome is an amazing place to visit, we were there for the first time in May 2023 and were blown away. As the locals say nonchalantly “Rome is Rome”.
Venturing out of the City of Rome is also rewarding for travellers.
We ventured North to Trevignano Romano, located on Lake Bracciano. We spent a month here in late May early June 2023.
Lake Bracciano
This volcanic lake is situated in the Parco di Bracciano -Martignano Regionale Naturale.
Around the lake are the communes of Bracciano with its medieval Orsini-Odescalchi Castle, Anguillara Sabazia, and Trevignano Romano.
In the summer rumour has it, there is a ferry that sometimes, maybe, possibly, runs between the 3 towns?
Trevignano Romano
Trevignano Romano is located on a hillside, off of a secondary crater at the northern shore of the lake.
There have been people living here for ages, first the Etruscans, then the Romans. The medieval village was initially established around 1220 and has been inhabited ever since.
There is no train station here, hence it is a little harder to get to, when compared to the neighbouring towns of Aguilera and Bracciano. Which is a bit of a bonus as it results in less traffic.
The Backdrop
The surrounding park keeps the scene green, creating a perfect balance between water and wooded hills.
The lake is constantly changing colors and complexion. Sometimes the lake takes on shades of greens, other times blues or steely greys. On calm days the of the lake is like the surface of a mirror, but if the wind kicks up the lake can quickly be covered with white caps.
Evenings often bring thunder clouds that roll along the ridges of hills that surround the lake.
There is always light playing on the water, reflected sunlight from windows and whirly gigs belonging to buildings across the lake. On clear nights the moon lights up the surface of the lake.
The lake and the surrounding area is home to herons, egrets, crows, magpies, ducks, swans, swallows, seagulls, doves, pigeons and raptors.
You might be lucky enough to see a muskrat cruising by the shore of the lake during dawn and dusk. Around the peripheries of town you will often see wild pigs known as chingali roaming around. If you are really lucky you may be lucky enough find to a chingali ragu on offer in one of the areas restaurants!
Old abandoned fishing boats, sprouting weeds in their unused hulls can be found marooned on the shoreline and in seldom used parking spots. Fishing nets festoon fences or stone walls waiting for repair or dissolution (whichever comes first).
In the spring there is the ever-present fragrance of flowering jasmine.
The promenade along the lake is lined with iconic canopy pines, gardens and wonderful places to eat.
The Borgo (not to be confused the Borg)
A borgo is a small, usually medieval village or collection of farmhouses built around a church, castle or fortress. The fortifications can be incorporated into the borgo itself.
The Borg on the other hand are cybernetic organisms with a collective mind “the Collective” in Star Trek, in our experience this concept definitely does not apply to the Italians!
The central point of Trevignano is the Borgo, and at its heart is the 16th-century Church of the Assumption into Heaven (Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta). Above the church are the ruins of a medieval fortress built in the 13th-century.
The Borgo of Trevignano is a beautiful little commune. The buildings are mostly located below the church, huddled together in close quarters in a somewhat Higgedly Piggedly fashion.
Between the buildings are cobblestone alleyways that wander through the maze of walls covered in pastel plaster often accented with sections of exposed rock. Low arches lead out of the borgo.
Pastel plastered, cobblestone alleyways meander through the borgo, segregating and connecting the mismatched jumble at the same time.
Steep winding staircases and tiled roofs are common features of these homes, and are often adorned with clay pots full of geraniums. Ivy and jasmine climb the walls and surround doorways.
Cats sleep on ledges, stairwells and in empty planters, keeping an eye open for passing dogs. Although many of these cats have no attachment to any occupants here, food and water is put out for them in abundance.
There is an abundance of human life in the Borgo as well. Artisans, Painters, instrument repairmen can be seen working in their shops in the Borgo. Men occupy the benches usually reading newspapers or just watching the world pass by.
Stone stair treads have become concave as they have yielded to thousands of footsteps over the century’s giving the place a sense of antiquity.
Love Me – Love my Dog!
Italy is known to be one of the most pet-friendly countries in the world. Dogs are welcomed in most public places, including shops, restaurants, cafés and even on public transportation. The local grocery stores even have shopping carts dedicated for their canine shoppers.
It seems like canine companions are fashion accessories. You see many fine examples of magnificent pure breeds accompanying their stylish owners strolling the boardwalk on the weekends.
A Tale of Two Towns
We experienced two Trevignanos during our month stay – the quiet weekday Trevignano and the livelier weekend version when the Romans come to town.
The Local’s Trevignano Romano
Trevignao Romano is approachable, friendly and has a definite village feel. Italians understand aesthetics’ and as a result the town is clean and beautiful.
There is the chiao peck on the left cheek then on the right, as locals meet in the cafes n bars.
Groups of older Italian gentlemen gather at their favorite corner of the promenade chatting in animated conversation. Some offer treats to dogs whose owner happen to be pretty younger women. The sly cannis.
Groups of older Italian ladies huddle sing songing in Italian, most likely enguage in gossip.
The chatter is possibly about La Maridonna di Trevignano the statuette who some believe has shed tears of the Madonna. Maybe more salacious topics include the goings on at the Mona Lisa swingers party house located up on the hill.
The Expats
The expats here understand cultural integration and blend in very well. They live where the locals live and most of expats we have met speak the Italian language very proficiently.
There is none of the ‘us and them’ attitude going on here. Trevignano is not over run with foreign tourists, so there is not that kind of aloofness you find in many tourist towns.
There is a very vibrant expat scene in Trevignano and a strong sense of community, even if everyone may not particularity like each other.
Working for the Weekend
Trevignano is quiet during week – hopping on weekends. The Romans bring their noise, families and dogs with them on the weekends. Along with a definite increase in the number of ambulances around.
Fashionistas show up on the weekend sporting designer glasses, Gucci bags and their finest poker faces.
Parking is a premium on weekends and sidewalks are often employed to accommodate the overflow. Parking attendants nonchalantly wave off the chingali (wild boar) and her piglets with a newspaper so that their patrons can comfortably exit their vehicles. Wives are often seen coaching their husbands as they squeeze cars into tight parking spots with inches to spare accompanied by a lot of arm waving.
Along the main drag that circles the lake you will see cyclists riding in groups with matching gear. Motorcyclists with matching motorcycles, you will even see matching sports cars his and hers maybe?
Vintage cars with tops down roll through town on the weekends.
Sunday markets feature old stuff including antiques and ancient cameras, licorice stalls, artisans, musicians, drummers, clothing, all sorts handbags, sweets, cheese, vegetables and cherry wine grappa.
Because the lake acts as a reservoir for local drinking water, recreational petroleum powered boats are banned.
A few brave swimmers and scuba divers brave the chilly waters. Lake Braccino is a summer haven for sunbathers, sailors, sail boarders and wing foilers who race across the lake.
Boys fish off the promenade, men from boats.
Being Italy there is an abundance of good food to be had. You can set your watch by the smoke rising from the wood fire oven at the local Pinsaera at 11am and 3pm precisely.
